Newburyport shows its history

By SONYA VARTABEDIAN

Essex County Newspapers

NEWBURYPORT _ This city boasts of being a seaport for all seasons, and fall is no exception for the allure the waterfront community holds for visitors.

Take in the city's rich maritime history with a walk through Market Landing Park and along the boardwalk that follows the last few miles of the Merrimack River. Head west to get a glimpse of what was once a thriving shipbuilding district, where ships were made into the late 1800s.

A stop at the 1835 granite custom house at 25 Water St. that has been converted into a museum by the Newburyport Maritime Society features six galleries with exhibits and artifacts exploring three centuries of Newburyport's maritime past.

History buffs should also make a stop at the Cushing House Museum at 98 High St. Housed in a 21-room brick Federal home, the museum highlights the collection of the Historical Society of Old Newbury.

Just a little way down the street is the Coast Guard station. It's symbolic in that the launching of the Revenue Cutter Massachusetts from the banks of the Merrimack in Newburyport in 1791 gives the city the distinction of being the birthplace of the U.S. Coast Guard.

A few miles away, Plum Island _ which stretches into Newburyport and Newbury _ offers miles of sandy beaches, with views of the inlet, a historic lighthouse and surf fishing opportunities available at the point.

Across the bridge into Amesbury, catch a glimpse of the inner workings of the country's oldest, continually operating wooden boat-building business.

Opened in 1793, Lowell's Boat Shop located on the Merrimack River on Amesbury's Point Shore still produces dories utilizing age-old methods and plans. Today, the shop has been transformed into a working museum through the ownership and operation of the Newburyport Maritime Society.

The Newburyport and Plum Island area is known around the world as a natural history destination spot. The close proximity of ocean, salt marshes, mud flats freshwater ponds and mixed forests create a haven for wildlife.

Recognized as one of the nation's finest birdwatching areas, birders and nature enthusiasts flock here year-round to observe a tremendous diversity of habitats and species.

During the fall, huge numbers of shorebirds pass through the area en route from their Arctic nesting grounds to Central and South America. Many stop to rest and feed on the mud flats and salt meadows of the Merrimack River estuary.

The focal point for many birding trips is Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, a 4,662-acre sanctuary located on Plum Island less than four miles from downtown Newburyport. It is home to more than 800 species of birds, plants and animals.

Other natural settings abound in Newburyport, offering a respite on a leisurely day.

Maudslay State Park, a 480-acre state park along the Merrimack River, features 19th century garden plantings, rolling meadows, pine forests and mountain laurel, sits off Curzon Mill Road on the edge of the city. Guided tours and trails for walking, hiking, and horseback riding allow for up-close views of the changing foliage.

The Bartlet Mall at the top of Green Street at High and Pond streets encompasses the Superior Courthouse designed by Bulfinch in 1805, and features a glacier-formed frog pond with swan fountain in the center encircled by trees. Down the street, Atkinson Common has its own foot and bike paths, as well as tennis courts.

Shoppers who visit Newburyport will be treated to an eclectic mix of stores and boutiques. There are many one-of-a-kind items to choose from downtown and in The Tannery complex located in restored leather mills a short walk away. Restaurants also abound, with culinary fare from sushi to Szechuan that's designed to suit all appetites.

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